Let's Migrate South For The Winter!

Hello dear friends and family!

I am finally back in Beijing and already well into new classes after three weeks of traveling through bits of China and Southeast Asia, and couldn't be happier about it! I returned home earlier than planned the day before New Year's Eve (the New Year started February 7th) and was rewarded with unusually clear night air for Beijing and surprise fireworks- as our plane descended for landing, I watched the sky below flash with the sparks of huge fireworks lit by the few people left in Beijing; every second they could be spotted in every neighborhood. The New Year's celebrations had clearly begun!

But the frequent explosions of firecrackers and fireworks that would have American police scrambling to arrest the hooligans was just the beginning. As I watched the skyline from a friend's 26th floor apartment on New Year's Eve, admiring the clear skies that allowed us to the city center and even past Tian'anmen Square to the fireworks being launched at the southern outskirts of the city, I was filled with complete awe and excitement; we joined in the fun tradition with a few roman candles, sparklers, fountains and giant fireworks from the rooftop. Such products are outlawed within city limits throughout the year, but in light of the Lunar New Year and the long-standing tradition lighting off fireworks, city law permits fireworks for a certain period each year. Frankly, I don't think any amount of police, firefighters or government officials could stop every family left in Beijing (the natives and those who did not trek across China to return to their hometown for the New Year) from releasing an artillery of fireworks anyways.

As the year of the rat approached, more and more fireworks and firecrackers were being lit, and for over an hour, the city was a war zone of booms, crackles, flashes and smoke. Even before the sky had darkened there were constant explosions and always something pretty to see in every direction, but nearing the stroke of midnight and for nearly an hour afterwards, the entire city was literally ablaze.


Out on the street you couldn't even shout to talk to each other, as the booms from fireworks everywhere around you reverberated on the tall buildings, and from the roof everywhere you looked there were fireworks exploding! I would actually say that there could have been a million fireworks being set off that night, if not more! By the time it half-died down, the clear sky was filled with a smoky yellow haze, blurring even the lights of closer buildings and masking Tian'anmen completely. I conveniently forgot my camera, but luckily it was a sight one can never forget, and certainly enough to get me back to China for the Lunar New Year again!



Before diving into what I've been doing for the past month while on holiday, I'd like to wish you all a Happy New Year, and may good fortune and health come to you! Though I am far from home during a holiday that is most importantly spent with family, I can only send my thanks for every bit of warm encouragement that makes me feel you are always by my side, and wish you all the best for this coming year. I miss you and love you all!

Now for the juicy stuff...

By the fourth day of my trek around Southern China and Southeast Asia, it already felt as if it had been a month since we’d left Beijing. "We" consisted of myself and four other American students from our University of California program: Rafael (Rafa), Stephanie (Steph), Ben and Gloria. We were busy running around a completely unfamiliar city looking for authentic food and making our way to the top rated tourism sights, a trend that more or less describes the daily activities of my entire trip, major variations being the weather and the frustrations of managing (or rather, surviving) every mode of transportation.

I must admit that the first time I really had a chance to jot a few notes down was not until I arrived at the island of Phuket, Thailand. With a welcomed cool breeze drifting through the window and the sound of roosters arising with the morning light, I was suddenly inspired to remember the events, views, tastes, sounds and feelings of the first week and a half, perhaps realizing that the enticing beauty and fun to be had throughout Southeast Asia could dilute the experiences of China. Although Chengdu, Guilin and Yangshuo were far colder than we all expected for traveling so far south of freezing Beijing, the discomfort caused by the cold and disappointment over the terrible hazy fog that enveloped the supposedly epic scenery were not enough to stop us from having fun, and simply resulted in promises to return during a more temperate season to fully enjoy the scenery that makes these places so famous. I would prefer not to list all the places that we visited, as my 1400-plus photographs are plenty of a reminder (check out my flickr page…Flickr photo page All, and I mean all of my photos are posted with descriptions... this bit is rather supplementary to the photos), but rather recall the days that stood out, random highlights, moods and epiphanies. Such details are what set the tone when traveling, as the things that make traveling worth it are not merely the special things that can be seen nowhere else, but what is retained long after one has left the scenic route.

For instance, despite the disappointing weather, after hearing about the massive snow storms that hit China after we escaped to Southeast Asia, we could hardly complain about the benefits of a relative lack of mobs of tourists, a rather refreshing discovery amongst other advantages of winter travel such as finding blooming winter blossoms and an abundance of sweet, juicy tangerines throughout China. As food lovers it was a responsibility (or obsession) to seek out local bakeries in every city, and we were thoroughly satisfied with the offerings. After visiting the world’s largest Buddha at Leshan, an hour’s bus ride outside of Chengdu, we roamed around town for sweets after a lunch of brothy cilantro beef and tripe stew, and discovered delicious muffin-like cakes. They were so yummy that while waiting for the bus to get to the long-distance bus station back to the city, Rafa decided that the two cakes he’d already consumed were not enough and he just had to buy more, so he ran back down the street as we nervously hoped the bus wouldn’t arrive while he was gone. We were rather perturbed when he came back with only about four more cakes! The way he had been raving about them we expected him to come back with at least a dozen! Luckily the bus came shortly after he returned, but we still teased him about the risk of missing the bus for only a few cakes. Such are the priorities of our group- a willingness to put food over transportation.

As college students on a tight budget, for the most part we stayed at hostels as they usually had the best deals, were well marked, had English speaking staff, and have a distinct backpackers' atmosphere. However, we happened upon a few deals at local inns that just couldn't be beat- RMB 25 (about USD 3) per person per night in Yangshuo! Perhaps it was merely a hazard of paying so little for housing, but very few places had the hot water they promised, or if they did it didn't matter much because the room was so cold anyways. In Thailand and Cambodia this wasn't much of a problem, as a cool shower was actually refreshing in the heat, but throughout China and in Hanoi where a hot shower was necessary to warm the bones before hopping into a cold bed, it just strengthened my shivers and appreciation for reliable 24 hour scorching hot water at home. This may sound unpleasant (it was), and ridiculous (yes, we could fork out a few more dollars for nice accommodations), but honestly by the end of a long day, simply being able to wash and brush my teeth was enough to keep me content.

Those sort of "luxuries" were not always available, particularly when traveling long distances between cities by bus. I'm most specifically referring to the last bit of my trip in Vietnam and the horrifically long two day bus ride from Saigon to Hanoi, during which I had to restrain my urges to scream out in pain and frustration due to everything from the uncomfortable seating, hunger, lack of sleep, lack of more frequent stops, extreme tardiness, and the rudeness and stupidity of fellow passengers and rest stop workers. The only things that really got me through those hours were a copy of Papillion, deep breaths, and the unfathomable patience of my dear friend Rafa. Once again, the discomfort we encountered strengthened my appreciation for China's smooth transportation, everything from the smooth roads, relatively comfy seating, reliable schedules, complimentary water and snacks, and overall pleasant attitudes.

Speaking of attitudes... hopping around four countries within a month did not leave much time for deeply understanding each country and its people, but from our experiences we couldn't help but notice differences between each culture's attitudes towards foreigners and tourists, which turned out to be a large factor in our enjoyment of each place. China was as it has been since I arrived- welcoming, curious and overjoyed when you can read/speak the language. Thailand, probably due to the large tourism industry and abundance of lavishly spending Europeans who spent most of the day lounging their disgustingly dark and wrinkly nude bodies on the pristine stretches of heavenly beaches in Phuket (a decent-sized island on the west coast of Thailand that was hit hard by the tsunami, though besides the warning signs I couldn't have told you they suffered such a disaster with the rapid rebuilding of hotels), harbored an overwhelming number of eager, unrelenting businessmen seeking to take you somewhere ("Hello, tuk-tuk!") or sell you something ("Hello, pineapple!"). We'd gotten quite used to asking the pricing of anything before eating anything, using anything or going anywhere, yet on several occasions the business still tried to cheat us, claiming a much higher price than agreed upon, and certainly higher than deserved. In Phuket after a delicious dinner we nearly got the police called on us after refusing to pay ridiculously inflated prices. The one time we forgot to ask the price of every single dish (menus aren't prevalent, especially those in English), and the woman who seemed so sweet before became a raving mad lady backed up by her wrinkly mother. We knew what prices should have been, particularly at such a local joint, and we realized that she deliberately tried cheating us because while Rafa and I challenged them to call the police as they claimed they would if we didn't pay the full amount, the husband just kept sitting at his table, sipping tea and reading the paper, not in the least bit alarmed. Not until a long while after we pulled out what we thought was a fair amount and then some, claiming it was all we had, did he finally wave his hand, half motioning us to leave, half motioning to his wife to just give up. He knew the police would have nothing on us, and it would just bring trouble to the business. The daughter and mother were not very happy, continuing to pout and shout. Not a very good impression of the locals, who were for the most part friendly, though extremely keen on getting our money.

What we experienced in Vietnam was entirely different. I must note that we didn't even spend 24 hours in Saigon, as most of our time was on the long distance bus making our way from the southern region to Hanoi in the north. Thus, most of the people we encountered and the experiences that will stick forever should be specified as having taken place in Hanoi, which according to friends that know Vietnam better than I do, is somewhat known for being less friendly than the south. But unfriendly would be an understatement. As you know by now, I extremely enjoy food and so does Rafa, so much of our time was spent strolling the quaint Old Quarter of Vietnam (where most tourists lodge and visit), stopping for heavenly baguettes and Vietnamese coffee. We favored the hole-in-the-wall shops that were bursting with chattering locals, gesturing for prices and motioning for what that guy next to us was drinking. One afternoon however, when we did the usually "how much?" to the coffee lady, we were met with the cold flick of a hand and brisk turn of her head. I furrowed my brow in confusion, continuing to repeat "how much?" aloud and counting on my fingers, and in frustration as I realized that she had literally refused to serve us! What could possibly be her reason? Just because we were foreign? I was appalled and quite enraged at the blatant discrimination, which kind of spoiled the fun even when we did find a place kind enough to serve us. I have never before experienced such discrimination based so clearly upon appearances, and couldn't stop thinking about her reasoning for her actions. Unfortunately, this refusal of service happened again while trying to buy some baguettes from an old man, and in the same curt fashion. At that point, it didn't matter how many nice people we'd come across, I was already frustrated and disappointed, wondering what about the popular culture included discriminating against foreigners, even when a good portion of the local economy depends on tourism. I realize animosity towards Americans could have been a lasting effect after the Vietnam War, but surely they could not have know we were American. Not until discussing this later on did the possibility of a dislike of mixed people arise- in other words, many children of American soldiers were left behind to single Vietnamese mothers, which could inspire a dislike for not only the foreigners but also the mutt children left behind, as a if a reminder of all the pain already endured. Interestingly, Vietnam was the only place in Southeast Asia where locals asked whether I was part Asian, part white, which makes me wonder whether those discriminating shop owners could tell I was mixed too, and subsequently refused to have any dealings with me. These few moments should not be what dominates my impression of Vietnam and its people, but unfortunately I cannot help but hesitate when thinking about whether I would return to that country.

So that sums up the worst of the trip, which leaves my hands-down favorite: Cambodia. Saying that I went to Cambodia still feels a bit surreal, as I never would have guessed I'd visit the country that mourns at the sites of a genocide that happened less than forty years ago and also boasts Angkor Wat, the same place where Angelina Jolie filmed Tomb Raider. Despite an adventure crossing the border from Thailand, trying to make our way to Siem Reap, about 2-3 hours away from the border, during which we were originally cheated of money and a complete ride to Siem Reap but eventually ended up getting there using less money than originally paid by way of a bumpy ride on the back of a pick-up truck, and having to pay a bit more for rush Vietnamese visas, our days in Cambodia were relatively smooth and offered plenty of interesting tidbits. I couldn't say that it is a particular charming country, as the few paved roads and poor development certainly struck me as being Third World especially upon seeing nearby clusters of fancy hotels resembling palaces catering to Korean and Japanese tour groups, but Cambodia's complicated history and apparent contrasts kept me intrigued, particularly the differences between the majestic Angkor Wat Complex (you gotta see the photos for this! Angkor Wat Photos), and the haunting genocide museum and killing fields. The indescribable pride that Cambodians have for the ancient ruins of grand temples built by extravagant kings is well-deserved of the charmingly overgrown puzzle of scattered stones, remaining towers and intricate carvings that probably hardly do justice to the peak of its beauty. Perhaps such pride in the country's golden years centuries ago is strengthened alongside the confusion and heartbreak of the relatively recent genocide by their own Khmer Rogue of the early seventies, but such attitudes seemed nothing less of genuine, and only made me admire Cambodians for their seemingly collective nationalistic pride after such hardships. While strolling through the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, the very high school that was turned into the prison/extermination camp by the Khmer Rogue, I had a conversation with a monk in the standard papaya orange robe while looking at photographs of victims' skulls excavated from the killing fields. He was curious about how I, as a foreigner, felt about the issue, and not until I explained through teary-eyes that I was shocked, did I realize Cambodians felt the same way. He agreed that we could never understand the horrific ruthlessness of the Khmer Rogue, let alone their reasoning, nor comprehend the desperation of civilians and even children forced to be guards torturing friends and family. The monk admitted precisely what I was thinking when he said that if he had been alive during that time, he probably would have been killed for being an educated person and monk, and explained that Cambodians ask the same question: what could possibly be the reasoning for so many deaths? A solemn silence clouded the museum, extending to the killing fields (excavated mass graves and a tasteful monument housing the victims' skulls about thirty minutes outside the city) that we visited the next day at dawn, a silence that took away your breath in a way far different from the beauty of Angkor Wat.

I've realized that much of what I have described here is rather negative, but remember, this is merely a portion of the adventures, the bits that couldn't exactly be expressed through photographs, and if you take a peek at the photos, you will realize that I was quite content with my travels!

Flickr photo page: Click here to visit the first of many cities, and from there continue the journey!
Steps:
1. Click on this link (email me if it doesn't work for you)
2. Click on "Collections"
3. Click on "Sets". Here you will see all the albums I've organized by location.
4. Click on the set that you want to see (they are in reverse chronological order, i.e. the first album Chengdu is at the bottom of the page).
5. You may view it as a slideshow by clicking on "View as slideshow" to the right side. Many photos have captions along the bottom; these take a more time to load than the photos in slideshow mode, so if you're not seeing any descriptions, just wait a second longer.
6. You may also click on "Detail" to see larger thumbnails of the photos, including their captions.

How could I not be happy here:


Or smiling non-stop when I have:


And see this:


And this:


Soon enough I will have spent an entire year in China, and I would like to think that my understanding of China has become more deep. My time hopping around Southeast Asia may not have provided a similarly complete picture of each country, its culture, history and people, but it revealed one thing that I have learned in China: the world is more complicated than we think.

I hope you enjoy the photographs, and of course, if you have any problems with the links, any questions or thoughts, please don't hesitate to email me!


Much love,

Kenzie