The End of the Beginning

Zao shang hao!

I would like to say that I've worked out a comfortable daily routine now that classes have started, but the truth is that everyday is still quite different from the one before.


I spent the 4th of July on a rickshaw tour of the ancient neighborhoods of Beijing, called hutongs, followed by a serene boat ride upon nearby Shisha lake. Our group was actually able to meet a family that lives within one of the hutongs, and it was exciting to know that these very homes were over 200 years old! However, I was saddened upon hearing that this decent complex that was once occupied by only a single family now houses eight families, creating a very crowded living space. Regardless, many elder Beijing natives still prefer living in the hutongs over the abundant modern high-rise apartments, if only because of the intimate community created. These "ordinary" homes contrasted extensively with the imperial gardens nearby, and the high-class tea tasting we experienced (lots a fun with tidbits of info about tea ceremonies, tea drinking and different types; the jasmine was the most delicate yet fragrant I have smelled/tasted!)


Following a disappointingly salty dinner (everything was unnecessarily salty, except for the salt baked shrimp, which was deliciously juicy), I boarded a boat that rowed around the small lake while a woman sat at the bow playing beautiful songs on a traditional Chinese string instrument. Gorgeous pink lotus flowers floated upon the water and vibrant willow trees dipped the edges of the lake, creating a peaceful haven within the polluted and crowded city where even the locals come to swim and hang out along the lakeside pathways.

Friday night I had dinner at the famous Laoshe Tea House (lots of fresh cucumber in many dishes, not too spicy or salty, and we got fried rice!), during which a band played some interesting tunes with traditional Chinese instruments; the Mongolian folk songs were quite attractive, but you can imagine the perplexed look upon my face when I heard the limbo rock! Very strange indeed... I was impressed by the shadow play that followed: puppets were held against a backlit opaque screen and cleverly moved across- there were turtles, frogs, cranes, fish...all masterfully animated by the movement of their limbs and eyes to the extent that the death of turtle (eaten by a mean crane) evoked sorrowful coos from the crowd.
This incredible performance was only the beginning of the night, as we soon moved to a theater upstairs for many fun performances such as opera, dancing, singing, gongfu, an acrobat with fire, musicians, a magician and my favorite: oral mimicry. I stared in disbelief as two old men mimicked birds chatting and laughing- I have never heard such high-pitched and accurate sounds come from humans! They also mimicked things like traffic and departing trains with incredible precision.


A trip to the Temple of Heaven the next morning was the beginning of the end of our orientation. We were free to roam the expansive park and intricate temples, annexes and altars where emperors once went to pray to the heavens for good harvests. This park was not entirely a tourist attraction, as many locals go to this park on the weekends to do tai chi, sing opera, play intense games of hacky-sack (not joking!) and play what could only be described as a version of paddle ball in which one attempts to keep the ball upon the paddle through graceful spinning motions of the arms and body. I was comforted by the abundant cypress trees stretching far throughout the park, reminded of the old redwoods at home.


This peacefulness abruptly ended with our arrival at Panjiayuan in the afternoon, an open bazaar of antiques, jewlery and textiles. The humidity, cigarrette smoke and general crowdedness of people and things was suffocating, but I somehow managed to find some nice gifts. And practicing my bargaining skills was rather satisfying! This concluded the summer program orientation, a welcomed end as I look forward to returning to each place as well as exploring other places on my own.

Perhaps even more exciting than these major Beijing sites are the simple adventures in daily life. Like buying a bike! Poorly made, but hey! I got a lock and a basket thrown in, all for 140 yuan (less than 20 dollars), and it is much nicer being able to meander along the tree lined streets than sweat buckets walking everywhere! The bike will definately be kept in my room to prevent theft, despite having a u-lock, chain and wheellock! After collectively complaining about the lack of rice in Beijing (no one serves rice!) and our stomach problems from the lack of fresh fruits, veggies and carbs in our diets, my friends and I searched for peanut butter, jelly and bread at the campus market to make sandwiches- and we actually found it all! Our tummies appreciated the PB&Js, as well as the whole watermelon I bought. Wonderfully sweet! I tried a dragonfruit as well- perhaps the most exotic fruit I have ever come across, with its thick bright pink skin and juicy sweet kiwi-textured white meat inside speckled with tiny edible black seeds. We all decided to buy more dragonfruit while it's available, and cheap, in China.

And how can I forget the most important thing I am here for- Chinese class! Perhaps placed a bit higher than appropriate, but I cannot resist the challenge. I cannot remember the last time I felt that I would actually struggle in a class, and not even to excel, but to simply understand 100% of what the teacher says! Sometimes I feel as if I am the only one doesn't understand a quarter of what is said, but perhaps it is only because I seem to be one of the few wide awake students giving any indication of hearing the teacher's words, even if it's signs of uncomprehension. Thank goodness we get private tutors! Nevertheless, I know that my language skills will improve dramatically, and it helps that the teachers are energetic and truly interested in help us learn.

Speaking of classes, time to get some sleep...yes, even though it's Saturday night... because it's been an exhausting day, and I have a full day of homework tomorrow! Okay, and maybe another fruit-buying excursion...

Love you all!!!! And thank you for all the responses- I love hearing about what you're up to as well, and how you enjoy my adventures!

Love,
Kenzie